Why Are My Shrimp Dying? 8 Common Causes Explained

1. Poor Water Parameters

Shrimp are much more sensitive to water chemistry than most freshwater fish. Small swings in ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, or pH can quickly lead to stress or even death.

Why it matters:
Shrimp absorb nutrients and toxins directly from the water. Even low levels of ammonia or nitrite (as little as 0.25 ppm) can be lethal.

✅ How to avoid it:

• Test your water weekly using a liquid test kit

• Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm, and nitrates below 20 ppm

• Maintain a stable pH within the ideal range for your shrimp species

• Use rematerialized RO water for consistent results

🧠 Pro Tip: Sudden changes in pH or GH/KH can trigger molting issues or death. Always match water parameters during water changes.

2. Inadequate Acclimation

Shrimp are highly sensitive to changes in water chemistry. Placing them directly into a new tank without slow acclimation can cause osmotic shock — a silent killer.

✅ How to avoid it:

• Use the drip acclimation method over 1–2 hours

• Float the bag to match temperature, then slowly drip in tank water

• Avoid adding store water to your aquarium

🧠 Pro Tip: Dim the tank lights during acclimation to reduce stress.

3. Copper and Other Contaminants

Many commercial aquarium products contain copper — a mineral that's harmless to fish but toxic to invertebrates like shrimp.

Where it hides:

• Tap water

• Medications (especially for fish diseases)

• Plant fertilizers

• Some fish foods

✅ How to avoid it:

• Always check product labels for copper or "not invertebrate safe" warnings

• Use shrimp-safe water conditioners

• Consider using RO/DI water for maximum control over impurities

🧠 Pro Tip: Even small doses of copper can build up over time. Use activated carbon or chemical media (like CupriSorb) if contamination is suspected.

4. Overfeeding and Poor Diet

It’s easy to overfeed shrimp — they’re tiny and don’t need much. Uneaten food breaks down quickly, polluting the water and fueling ammonia spikes or bacterial blooms.

✅ How to avoid it:

• Feed shrimp 2–3 times a week (less for lightly stocked tanks)

• Use high-quality, shrimp-specific food with added minerals

• Remove uneaten food after 2–3 hours

• Supplement with blanched veggies or leaf litter

🧠 Pro Tip: Shrimp love biofilm and algae — don’t scrub every surface! A slightly “seasoned” tank is ideal.

5. Lack of Hiding Places

Shrimp molt regularly, and during that time they’re soft, vulnerable, and easily stressed. A tank without enough cover leaves them exposed and insecure.

✅ How to avoid it:

• Add plenty of moss, driftwood, rocks, and shrimp tubes

• Use botanicals (like Indian Almond Leaves) to provide natural shelter

• Heavily plant the tank for cover and grazing areas

🧠 Pro Tip: More hiding spaces = higher survival rate for babies and molting adults.

6. Aggressive Tank Mates

Even "peaceful" fish may harass or hunt shrimp, especially juveniles. A single chase can cause fatal stress.

Known shrimp predators:

• Bettas

• Barbs

• Gouramis

• Cichlids

• Larger tetras

✅ How to avoid it:

• Choose shrimp-safe tank mates like Otocinclus, small rasboras, snails, and dwarf Corydoras

• Keep species-only tanks if breeding shrimp

🧠 Pro Tip: Baby shrimp (shrimplets) are especially vulnerable — even curious pecks from small fish can be deadly.

7. Temperature Fluctuations

Shrimp do best in stable temperatures. Quick changes (from heaters, cold water changes, or room temps) can be dangerous.

✅ Ideal Ranges:

• Neocaridina: 70–74°F (21–23°C)

• Caridina: 68–72°F (20–22°C)

✅ How to avoid it:

• Use a reliable aquarium heater with a thermostat

• Avoid large temperature swings during water changes

• Consider a fan or chiller in hot weather

🧠 Pro Tip: Keep a thermometer in the tank and monitor temperature daily.

8. Incomplete Cycling

The #1 killer of shrimp in new tanks is adding them before the tank is fully cycled. Even trace amounts of ammonia or nitrite can wipe out a colony.

✅ How to avoid it:

• Fully cycle your tank before adding shrimp (use liquid test kits to confirm)

• Add shrimp only when ammonia and nitrite are at 0, and nitrates are below 20 ppm

• Seed the tank with sponge filter media or bottled bacteria

🧠 Pro Tip: Let your tank mature for a few weeks before adding shrimp — they thrive in biofilm-rich environments.

Conclusion

Losing shrimp without knowing why is disheartening — but the good news is, it’s almost always fixable. Most shrimp deaths can be traced back to water quality, improper setup, or overlooked stressors like poor acclimation or bad tank mates.

By taking the time to understand your shrimp’s needs, regularly testing water, and providing the right environment, you’ll set yourself up for success. Remember, shrimp thrive in stable, low-stress setups with clean water, plenty of biofilm, and lots of hiding spots.

Whether you're a beginner or looking to grow your colony, our team at Everything Aquariums is here to help. Check out our other shrimp care articles, setup guides, and product reviews — and if you ever need tailored advice, drop us a message!

Your shrimp deserve the best — and you’ve got what it takes to give it to them.